Belize: a very special trip diving and witnessing shark research

Hello Everyone!  This is a very special blog for me as I was offered a once in a lifetime trip to travel to Belize and to see and photograph shark research that has been and is being conducted there and at Glovers Atoll.

I travelled to Belize with Ellen Pikitch, PhD a world renowned marine scientist and one of  'my guyz', underwater photographer, Connie Z.  I was invited there as their guest and to be a dive buddy and backup underwater photographer.  The trip planning started many months ago and we left Miami on April 26th and returned on May 4th.  

 

w/Dr Ellen Pikitch and underwater photographer Connie Z.

Dr Pikitch runs the Institute for Ocean Conservation Science http://www.oceanconservationscience.org/mission/mission.php  and more about her and her work can be learned by following the link.  The New York Times ran an article about her shark research at Glovers Atoll coincidentally on the day of our departure.  Her shark research is the longest running research of sharks in the Caribbean. 

Our trip was multi-faceted and there was much on our plate and itineary.  We flew into Belize City on American Airlines and from there caught a Maya Air flight to Dangriga Town much further south.  Very exciting and the beginning of this wonderfull adventure.

From Dangriga we took a 40 minute shuttle van ride to Hamanasi resort where we spent 3 days getting acclimated and organized and did some diving and attempted to see and photograph whale sharks as this is a peak time of year for them to show up.  Hamanasi is a jewel of a resort with wonderfull staff, food and accomodations and a professional dive operation.  http://www.hamanasi.com/  Our hostesses there were Jan and Stephanie and if ever we wanted anything their reaction was:  'no problem'.

                                                                  w/Jan and Stephanie
While at Hamanasi we did some tune-up dives and quested for the whale sharks.  Whales sharks are in these waters to feed on the spawn of Cubera Snapper.  The snapper collect at a location named Gladden Spit which is a bit of a hike by boat from either Hamanasi or later Glovers Atoll.  The snapper release their spawn and as it rises to the surface the whalesharks appear and filter feed upon it.  We could and did simulate the spawn by gathering in a circle and our exhalation bubbles provided the simulated spawning.  Cute trick but in our case it did not work!  However, we did see dolphins, Cubera Snapper, Trevally Jacks, Horse-eyed Jacks and Bull sharks all on the same dives and layered upon one another.  Oh, I almost forgot that we also saw Loggerhead, Green and Hawksbill turtles.  The corals in Belize are all dense and very much alive and splendid with color.  I had one of the best wall dives ever while there.  Later during the trip Dr Pikitch and Connie returned to Gladden Spit from Glovers Atoll and did see one whale shark!!

 

simulating spawn

From Hamanasi we travelled by open boat with luggage under a tarp to Glovers Atoll which was an adventure in itself!  We arrived at dive resort on an island located just a few minutes by boat from the Wildlife Conservation Society's research center, the Isla de Marisol, which is owned and operated by 'Eddie'. http://www.islamarisolresort.com/  Photo above, and Eddie and I in the photo below. 

Photos of the research center below

We used Marisol as a headquarters and from there travelled by boat to meet up with Dr Ellen's research crew who were housed at the research center.   In addition to Dr Pikitch's shark research there are other marine science related research programs being conducted at the center.  Alex Tilley (working toward his PhD) is conducting research on Southern Stingrays and there were two young marine scientists studying sponge growth.  One other project involved the study of algae and currents, and cages were made using PVC to cover small coral heads from the foraging of algae by parrotfish.  Cages were placed on heads of corals on both sides of the Atoll where currents fluctuated.

                                                              sponge study

PVC cages

This was all very fascinating to me.  I never dreamt I would be anywhere near any marine science studies much less be along during it all!  As mentioned the trip was multi-faceted with much to accomplish on our plate the main focus was Dr Ellen's shark research. 

Her research officially began in 2000.  Her shark studies and surveys are conducted in a protected 'no take' zone.  As we all know sharks, an apex predator and a key element in the oceans' food chain, are under increasing pressure from fishing.  My personal take on her research shows that while shark populations may not grow where they exist within protected areas, none the less, the population does not diminish in numbers either.   Sharks existing in protected areas have a chance to thrive or at least survive.  I witnessed this in Key Largo where we are now seeing small numbers of sharks in our Sanctuary Preservation Areas (SPAs) which are also 'no take zones'.

Her and her research team would during the day and at night venture in an open boat and upon open ocean to set baited lines to catch sharks.  They employed long lines in shallower water with 50 hooks and employed deep water lines vertically to depths of 800 feet with 5 hooks on these.  They were very meticulous in not leaving these lines soaking too long.  This was to avoid injuring, due to fatigue, anything that they caught.  This aspect of the trip was a lot of physical work and long hours.  I was glad I was just there to photograph it all. 

Once a shark was caught the team would bring it to the surface and from there:  measure it, determine its sex, take a small slice of its dorsal fin for a DNA sample and tag the animal.  I want to stress that great effort was made to not harm the animal.  In one instance one gray reef shark appeared very tired so it was released immediately and no data was collected.  We caught two types of sharks on this trip.  Caribbean Reef Sharks (which I oftentimes just call 'gray reefs') and Nurse sharks.  The gray sharks were small 'pup's and my loose guess measured them at up to 3 feet in length.  The Nurse sharks caught were larger and one caught was at least 8 feet in length.   Dr Ellen put together a great team.  Captin Nolan a great boat handler pictured above and to the left and the 'team' to his right and heading out to haul up the long-line.  Just under are Connie and Dr Ellen prepping hooks.  Below that photo is a shark alongside the boat. 

The following photos hopefully tell the story better than I can in writing:

I could write thousands of words about the exhileration of this trip and experience.  It was a very wonderfull opportunity for me.  Hopefully pictures are indeed worth a thousand words.

Thank you very much Dr Ellen and Connie for the invitation and opportunity for me to have this marvelous experience!   lg

PS: I would also like to thank the following people for their help, support, kindnesses, generosity, and friendship:  Jan, Stephanie, Bert and Troy at Hamanasi.  Eddie, Darren, Chad and Kitty at Isla de Marisol.  Nolan, Damion, Alex and Buc at the WCS research center.

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Bonaire: a dream that came true!

Many years ago, I began working with a good student of SCUBA, Jim Kent.  He ultimately became a PADI Master Scuba Diver.   Along the way we found we had one dream in common, which was to some day travel to and dive in Bonaire.   In 2002, the dream started to become a reality when he and his non-diving wife invited me to go as their guest. 

We orginally planned to go during the winter months of 2003.  However, as is often the case in life 'shit happens', and the trip was postponed.  Same thing again for the next several years.  Until last fall when I received an email from Jim, wherein he reiterated his invitation and wondered whether I could and would still go.  The answer was a resounding yes!    

So Jim made the arrangments and we spent the week of February 6th through the 13th diving in Bonaire.  It was worth the wait and in a word:  'breathtaking'! 

The following pictures and my notes hopefully will do this trip of a life time justice.  Also, I hope that my blogging about Bonaire will be of use to any reader planning a trip to Bonaire.  Which I highly recommend!  Here goes: 

The above photo depicts the 'fun' spirit which was the undercurrent of the trip.  Jim invited a family of three, Jeff, wife Trish and 9 year old daughter Maddie (Madison).   Many pre-trip emails were sent back and forth and I mentioned in one that all I needed to pack was tee-shirts, and swim trunks and shorts and flipflops for clothes.  Trish thought I should also have underwear, so the gang, bought me a pair and this is what I found on my bed on my first evening when I arrived!   Okay, stage is set for a fun, filled with practical jokes week!

We stayed at Buddy Dive, and they are in their 30th year of business and we even got a free tee-shirt as part of their celebration.  Buddy Dive is an excellent choice.  The service from everybody working there was great and had two common aspects:  all staff smiled and any request was answered with 'no problem'.  

Like most resorts it is located on the water and in front of a glorious coral reef, which are referred to as 'house reefs'.  They are only a few fin kicks from shore and at the resorts, entries and exits, could not be easier when it comes to shore diving.  Something we later learned to appreciate.   All tanks, including Nitrox and our gear were kept and stored at the dock at the dive center , so, diving could not be any more convenient or less of an effort.

The snapshot above shows 'my guy' Jim, the 'chick magnet', with Susie, who along with her husband John own and operate the digital photo center at Buddy Dive.  They have 40 years of experience and were helpfull to me in finding subjects, like Octopus and helpfull to other guests with photo questions and in giving advice.  Susie in this photo epitomizes the friendly nature of all the staff at Buddy Dive.

 This picture is of the largest Orange Elephant Ear sponge that I have ever seen. It is also typical of the live corals and densely packed corals found in Bonaire. The dives start in about 15 feet of water and in most cases the corals are found on gently sloping walls ending at around 100 feet.   Our visibility always approached 100 feet.  The skies were cloudy early in the mornings but by mid morning filled with sunshine.  Air temperatures were in the low 80s and the water temperature at all dives sites was 78 degrees. 

This photo shows the ease of entry when shore diving at Buddy Dive and its house reef.   The reef begins where the water turns a deeper blue in color.   I don't think diving gets any easier than this!  

Photo of Jim, Trish, Jeff and Maddie.  A great group.  It was Jeff's first ocean and coral reef diving experience though he has dove for many years and done the deeper wrecks in Michigan.  Trish and Maddie discovered the corals and decorative reef fish and critters on snorkel.  One evening after dark, while snorkelling Trish witnessed a Tarpon preying on a Blue Tang!  Evidentally the tarpon buddy up with the divers and use the dive lights to help them spot prey.

Trish and Maddie snorkel at an off property site named the Windsock and one of our favorite sites, due to its ease of entry and exits.  Ease of entry and exits are crucial to shore diving and including in Bonaire.  While the dive sites are on the leeward side of Bonaire, there is still some surge and surf to deal with on most days, even though both are comparatively mild.  

The above photo is of Jim's leg which was abraded during a fall when exiting an off property dive site.  His fall was not uncommon, as I too fell, and I witnessed many other divers falling, either during entry or exits.  I had not heard of difficulty in shore diving in Bonaire, so after these events, I asked the local divers (working pro divers) what was up with that?   The answer was that in 2007, Hurricane Omar passed close to Bonaire and its swells washed the shore diving beaches clean of sand.  The result of this was exposure of rough substrate with small ankle turning crevices and foot trapping 'potholes', scattered among a lose rock, dead corals, and a cobblestone like limestone bottom.   These were impossible to see as the waves filled the water with sand which prevented in many cases the ability to see where you were walking.  

We were lucky in walking away (pun intended) with only abrasions and nicks and scratches.  One pro diver there had a full leg cast and a touring diver broke his leg which shortened his vacation.   

 

Midmorning of our second day, we resolved to do a bit more 'dive planning' which is depicted in the above photograph.  We took more time in scouting out off property sites for ease of entry/exits.  Ultimately, we spent most of our dive time diving the house reef.  It is also where we saw most of the cool stuff, like an Eagle Ray, and a school of Tarpon, neither of which are depicted in this blog.   When going to Bonaire, take some form of full body suit.  A dive skin or darlex or trilaminate suit, or a 3mm one piece wetsuit will be of comfort if you fall and also help keep you warmer (3mm wetsuit).  Also, while I use full foot fins when boat diving, when shore diving I'd reco using adjustable foot fins as they require the use of booties which are a necessity when walking in and out of the water and shore diving.

 

After our successfull regroup and more thoughtfull dive planning we thought the above was 'thee' way to go (and come)!   Nothing could be easier and we are all about easy diving with minimal effort and maximum safety.   I ran into fellow named Scott from Nebraska who had been coming to Bonaire for 20 years and he told me that he only dives the house reefs.  Pre or post Omar.   My new experience tells me Scott is right and other diving could be done from the resorts' boats.  A one tank dive is only $30.  A bargain compared to the time and effort consuming logistics of packing the rental vehicle and managing off property shore diving.  

 

Each day our day started with an all you can eat breakfast buffet.  This included scrambled eggs, omelettes and eggs made to order, bacon and sausage links, white and dark bread toast and butter, mini crusty baggettes, fruits of cantelope, pineapple, honeydo, watermelon, papaya and others, waffles, pancakes and french toast, good coffee, juices, milk, cereals and water.  They make their own water in Bonaire and it is potable from the faucets.  We stayed in a large on property apartment/condo with full kitchen facilities so were able to take and make many meals 'in'.   

 

After breakfast the focus was diving!  All visitors participate in a mandated one time 'orientation' and these are held each morning at 9AM.  Bonaire has protected its resource since 1978 and Bonaire is a dive Mecca because it has done so.   An early advocate of buoyancy control, they want to make sure the divers have it together before turning them loose on their reefs.   The above shot is of a buoyancy control 'obstacle' located on Buddy Dive's house reef and in about 40 feet of water.  Gloves are banned in Bonaire for diving. 

As a photographer, I found it easy to find photographic subjects, but, hard to photograph them.  This is because the coral is all alive and very densely packed and it was difficult and at times impossible to find any open areas of sand to settle into and or even to find a piece of bleeched or dead coral to use my finger-tips to stablilize myself.  Fortuntely there was little or no surge at depth nor any currents of any measureable degree.  Lack of current and surge is typical in Bonaire at least along the leeward side of the island. 

Bonaire is more of a Macro place than a wide angle place.  I used a Canon and Watershot housed digital SLR camera system and a mid range zoom lens and a 60mm Macro lens both behind a flat port.  Only on a couple of occasions did I want for my dome port and a wider angle of view lens.  My housing, a Watershot, was small enough and agile enough with good ergonomics, for me to be able to 'one hand' it, so I could, if I could find a place, use my free hand to help stablelize myself to make the photograph.  

 

The above snapshot depicts the Macro nature of Bonaire.  In this case a photo of a Banded Coral Shrimp.  In most desitnations a rarely encountered critter, but, in Bonaire it seemed at times I would come across small villages of them! 

 

Green Sea(above) and Hawksbill Turtles are doing well in Bonaire and are frequently sited.  The photos that follow are of other marine life that are commonly seen and most were photographed right in front of Buddy Dive and on its house reef.   

 

The above photograph of a Scorpionfish among the colorfull and live corals

 

Peacock flounders were seen on virtually every dive and this guy was about one foot in size.

 

I thank photo pros, John and Susie, for this shot as they alerted me to the presence of the Octopus on BD's house reef.  took me parts of four days to find it, but, that is another story.... !

 

Just another snapshot of how alive the reef is.  And below a shot of the resort, with the dive and photo aspect of the operation depicted in the lower level. 

 

My words and these 20 odd photos do not do justice to my trip to Bonaire.  It was one of those trips of a lifetime and one of those dreams that do come true.  Bonaire is considered a dive 'mecca' and rightfully so.   Highly recommended to any and all levels of scuba divers.  Hard to begin to describe all the good things.  Beginning with a non-stop from Miami via Insel Air.  No travel glitches or hitches. 

The accomodations we had at the resort were excellent.  The grounds were garden and paradise like. The housekeeping was there every day and did a thorough job leaving plenty of new towels and changing bedclothes daily. 

The wait staff at the resautants and tiki bar at Buddy Dive's were very prompt and courteous.  When on vacation, both food and drink are of high import to me and I was not at all disappointed.

The dive staff were all smiles all the time and anything they could do to help, all one needed to do was ask.  It was done!  'No problem'.  A very professional group of divers.  Rinse tanks for scuba, regulators and camera equipment were everywhere and the water changed several times a day.

My photographs and words do not do this trip justice ( said again to make sure I am clear on this!). I have been on some great dives and on some great trips and to great places.  Bonaire ranks right up there with the best of the best!

The following are some links that may be useful to you should you begin to plan your trip to Bonaire:

http://bonairepros.com/About-Us.aspx  We spoke with and emailed  Andy at Bonaire Pros.  Very helpful.

http://www.buddydive.com/  This is the link to Buddy Dive and Andy helped with our arrangments.

http://www.fly-inselair.com/  Link to Insel Air and they fly every Saturday to/from Bonaire non-stop from Miami.

http://www.infobonaire.com/   Great site to learn almost everything about Bonaire.  Check out Bonaire Talk

I need to take a minute to again thank Jim Kent for being such a gracious host and thank Jeff, Trish and Maddie for being such good company and buddies!  Thank you Jim, Jeff, Trish and Maddie.  

lg 

PS:  The diving community is small and while in Bonaire that fact was again proven to me.  I unexpectedly ran into Ron Willis, fellow scuba instructor and a former UW photo student of mine and his group, who came from Pennsylvania.  To top that off, if possible, I met Ken Nedimyer from here in the Keys, who does reef restoration work. He was there with his family as working guests of BD and they may do some restoration in Bonaire ( does it need it??).  Finally, I met Bill Donovan, who owns Donovan's Scuba in Sioux Falls, SD.  He was there with his group of divers also from SD!  Over the years I have done referals with his students and it was good to met him and his wife and other South Dakotans and in all places, Bonaire!

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Bonaire Trip and notice

Hi Bloggers,

I am going to Bonare for a week beginning on February 6th and will return to Key Largo on the 13th.  Obviously I will not be blogging during that week.  But, that is not the reason for this post.

I am posting this notice here and on my website,  because my new customers find me either through my website or through this blog.  So, am making this post for their information and to let them know that should they contact me during this week, I may not be able to get back to them.

I will have limited email and internet access while there but no cell phone service.  I will reply as best I can and to those I was unable to reply to while in Bonaire will receive a reply from me beginning on the 14th.

Larry 

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Winter came......

Over a month ago I posted that winter was coming.  Well, it came!  Most reading this will already know that record low temperatures were experienced here in the Florida Keys and in Key Largo.   As I type we are not through with this weather and cold.  Very few souls have braved the cold air and water temps to scuba dive during these past weeks.  Most locals have dug out clothing that they wore in other lives and when they lived 'up North' in 'cold country'.   Pictured above are two examples! 

I was in a local dive store a couple days ago and was taken back by the fact that one of the sales reps was wearing a 'parka' (I question my spelling as it has been over 15 years since I've seen one, let alone spell it)!

I always carry a pocket camera and couldn't resist asking whether I could get a picture of this 'event'!  My models were great and agreed.  

It's been a month since my last blogpost.  So, missed an opportunity to wish everyone happy holidays and the best for 2010.  Right now am wishing it would warm up and soon so we can all get back in the water and truly enjoy our time there.  

Stay warm and healthy everybody!  lg

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FOOD!!!

I figured that if you are like me at all, and you likely are or you would not be reading 'my blog', that my titling this blogpost 'FOOD' would get your attention.

I'm a major food-a-holic and should weigh much more than I do because of it. I love food, both the eating of it and the cooking of it. So do most my friends and hopefully all of you reading this.

I'm proud to present in this blogpost 'Captain Pete's Banana Pepper Mustard'! This stuff ROCKS, guyz! Good-bye grey poupon. Because Capt Pete's Mustard is the real deal!

Captain Pete is a friend of mine here in Key Largo and is a boat captain who recently moved back to Key Largo from working in the Bahamas. And since then, started making this kick-ass mustard and makes it available to food-a-holics like me.

Capt Pete is just getting rolling with his mustard so it is not yet nationally distributed. But, if you are in Key Largo, you can get your jar of it at the Galley, just upstairs from Sharkey's Pub and next to Ocean Divers. If you are not in Key Largo, but, are coming, put getting a jar of this 'stuff' on your list. And while you are buying Capt. Pete's mustard, have some food at the Galley, dive with Ocean Divers and enjoy an adult beverage at Sharkeys afterwards. Thank me later!

Congrats Capt Pete on a great idea and recipe and best of luck with it.

lg

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Great Christmas Gift Idea!

Hello Everyone!

and Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays!!

I've been such a slacker with my blog lately so am going to try to fix that and beginning now.

I am going to make a 'plug' for what I think is a cool thing! Pictured above are two hand-made gel candles that are scented. The person who hand makes these is a friend of mine and also one of my students of scuba. She is very talented. She is also a very hard worker and makes these in addition to her full-time job and alongside of another part time job.

I have the two pictured above and they are very kewel. She buys shells and sand and the other materials and puts her loving touch to each candle by carefully placing each shell.

Some reading this might think it a bad thing to be using shells 'taken' from the Sea. However, to those who are; know that nothing was living in these shells at the time they were collected.

Additionally shells are beautiful things. But unless you live or travel to where they are found, you will never have the chance to see them. So, PC aside, these candles allow people who might enjoy shells, but, who do not get a chance to see shells, the opportunity to do so.

Also these candles help a very hard-working young woman earn her way in life! They make great candles for your own home and I believe a nice gift for Christmas for some one special in your life.

Here is the link so you can get these:

http://www.etsy.com/shop/jennmak1979

Merry Christmas to Everyone!

lg

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